Phaistos, Gortyna & the museums of the valley

Minoan Palace of Phaistos

One of the great archaeological sites of Crete, on the ridge you can see across the valley from the pool, and far quieter than Knossos. Second in size and importance among the Minoan palaces, spectacularly sited with the Psiloritis mountains behind, which is the same view you have from the house, reversed.

Unlike Knossos, Phaistos was left largely unreconstructed, so what you see is what four thousand years actually left. It is also where the Phaistos Disc was found, though the disc itself is in Heraklion. Go early in the morning or toward evening in summer, because there is very little shade. Map →

Agia Triada

A short drive beyond Phaistos, the smaller Minoan site of Agia Triada is a quiet counterpart, and many visitors find its intimacy the more affecting of the two. The two sites pair naturally into one relaxed archaeological morning, with a beach afternoon to follow. Map →

Archaeological Museum of Messara

Opened in 2023 at the western edge of the Gortyna site, and it is very good. The finds from Phaistos, from Gortyna and from the old tombs of the western Messara are all here, laid out in order from prehistory through to the early Christian centuries. If anyone in the group is interested in the archaeology, come here before you walk around the ruins and everything makes more sense afterwards. It is also indoors and cool, which makes it a good thing to do on a hot afternoon.

There is a combined ticket with the Gortyna site. Most Greek state museums close on Tuesdays and summer hours run much later than winter ones, so check the day's hours on the map link before you drive over. Map →

• Combined ticket with Gortyna
• Most Greek state museums close on Tuesdays

See also: Gortyna

Gortyna

Ancient Gortyna was the capital of Roman Crete and the site is enormous, the largest archaeological site on the island. The part you can walk into holds the Odeon and the Gortyn Law Code, the oldest surviving European law code, carved into the stone in the fifth century BC. There is almost no shade, so go early or late in summer.

The Temple of Apollo is signposted across the road, but if you only have time for one, stay on the Gortyna side. Map →

See also: Archaeological Museum of Messara

Make a day of it

Phaistos and Agia Triada in the morning, lunch in Pitsidia or at a beach taverna, then a swim at Kommos, where the ruins of a Minoan harbour town sit right behind the sand. Ancient world before lunch, Libyan Sea after. If it is too hot to stand in a ruin, drive up to Zaros instead, where there is shade and running water.